“In Italy, for thirty years under the Borgias, they had warfare, terror, murder and bloodshed, but they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. In Switzerland, they had brotherly love, they had five hundred years of democracy and peace – and what did that produce? The cuckoo clock.” — Orson Welles, ‘The Third Man’
If there is one thing most of us in the West know about Lebanon it is its struggle with peace. Starting in the mid-Seventies and, some may say, lasting all the way through to the present, the country has been ravaged by Civil War. Whether it is the Israelis invading and bombing it, or the various religious factions battling each other at the expense of its citizens, the beautiful city of Beirut and its stunning surroundings have seen more than their fair share of unrest and bloodshed.
Then came the revolts of late 2019 and early 2020, Covid-19, the financial crisis caused by a collection of corrupt governments and even a mortal blast in the port of Beirut which have all collectively tried the resilient Lebanese spirit to its core. Yet those friends and colleagues I follow on social media who make the country their home never seem to give up. They create more beauty, put forth more inspiration and just manage to keep going. Much lesser people would have long ago thrown in the towel.
In their latest documentary ‘War and Wine’, filmmakers and world travelers Mark Johnston and Mark Ryan explore the world of winemaking in Lebanon. And in the process, they manage to perfectly show us the humanity, resilience and beauty of both the country and its people.
The tradition of making wines in the land we know as Lebanon goes back 7,000 years and has withstood war and occupation. And as ‘Wine and War’ makes clear from the start, here “making wine is more than a way of life, it’s a state of mind.” At the center of the documentary are a cast of characters who make ‘Sideways’ seem like a high school production and leading this “cast” is the late Serge Hochar a man whose expertise in winemaking was only surpassed by his innate sense of humor. During an early interview in the film, the filmmakers even get a very Nadine Labaki’s ‘Capernaum’ moment out of Serge when he complains his parents didn’t ask for his permission to bring him into this crazy world. “I was forced to live against my will!” he declares, thus making it clear that the Lebanese possess a common spirit, one that has them question their tumultuous existence in ways we can only imagine in the West. Hochar himself passed away in 2015 drowing off the coast of Mexico, in a freak boating accident only worthy of his live-large-and-die-larger personality.
The film takes inspiration from Michael Karam’s book “Wines of Lebanon” which is a wonderful way to get to know wines and wineries from the region.
If you get to watch one documentary during this pre-Christmas, Halloween and Thanksgiving season, make it ‘Wine and War’ because it will warm your heart. But a word of caution — please make sure you have a great bottle of wine nearby because watching this film will make you thirsty for a great vintage.
‘War and Wine’ in fact goes down like a perfect wine — smooth, full bodied and bright.
‘Wine and War’ will premiere digitally on October 9th and you can watch it on the film’s website. The filmmakers will be donating proceeds to a children’s hospital in Beirut: All proceeds from the film’s release will be donated to CAP-HO, a charity providing much needed medical care to children without insurance at the St. Georges Hospital in Beirut, which was hit hard by the August 4 explosion in the Lebanese capital.
Following is an in-depth interview with filmmakers Mark Johnston and Mark Ryan.
Of course, the first question that jumps to mind is how did you ever manage to find Serge, who is undoubtably the leading man of this film?
Mark Johnston: I’d heard about Serge through Mark Ryan while we were finishing our first documentary, ‘The Invisible Front’. I met Serge for the first time on my first trip to Lebanon at the Chateau Musar winery in Ghazir. While Mark was setting up for the interview Serge took me to his office, sat me down, and asked me “What do you know about wine?” My response was honest. “Nothing,” I replied — I was a beer drinker at the time and was of the general opinion that wine was for snobs. Serge was excited to learn this and he cast a spell on me. It was a transformative experience. He asked Tarek Sakr who was next door to bring him a half bottle of the Chateau 2003 and two glasses. We began tasting and through the senses he took me into the earth, the sea, the mountains, the sky, and my surroundings and coming out of this it was all in the wine. It’s the only time in my life I have encountered a guru and it changed my life forever. Wine is a powerful tool of communication.
Mark Ryan: I had read the book “Wines of Lebanon”, by Michael Karam, and had heard about Serge Hochar and of Chateau Musar. In 2009, a girl I was dating invited me to her friend’s wedding in Beirut. I said absolutely, but only on the condition, that I can visit this winery a few hours away from Beirut. She agreed, we met Serge, Serge was more delighted to have met my girlfriend than myself, and the rest is history — he agreed to be filmed.
And when did you realize he was the central figure of your narrative?
Ryan: Immediately. The important question was if we make a film about Serge and Chateau Musar, or attempt to show how all the Lebanese wineries had and continue to have their own unique struggles.
Johnston: I realized Serge would be the central character within the first hour of meeting him. It was one of those rare times when you meet someone who changes the perception of how you think about the world. And this happened in the first sixty minutes of meeting Serge.
And the other “supporting characters” who are of course much more than that, were they all found because of Michael Karam?
Johnston: Serge we found on our own through Mark’s love of wine and attending wine festivals. But many key characters were found through Michael Karam’s book and a few others such as Father Joseph, George Sara, Helene Sader, Laure Salloum, and Patrick McGovern for example we found by chance meetings or research when it came to history. Michael Karam’s book “Wines of Lebanon” was a big inspiration. Especially as it was brilliantly written in a storytelling way. It wasn’t a technical wine book by any means. Which for me made a world of difference.
So then, how did you connect to Karam?
Ryan: We were going to make a film about Lebanon no matter what! Michael came on board immediately when we approached him.
‘Wine and War’ co-director Mark Johnston
Johnston: Mark and I were in New York chasing Serge and his team at Broadbent Selections around Manhattan, trying to land another interview and while in the taxi — hard to believe there were no Ubers seven years ago! — MK’s book came up and I suggested that we just try and look him up on Facebook. Later that night we sent a message on Facebook and within minutes we got a positive response. We set up a Skype for the next morning and flew to Lebanon a few weeks later to meet Michael.
When was your “lightbulb” moment, when you said to yourselves, “we’ve got to make a film about wines in Lebanon!”
Johnston: The first lightbulb moment really came on the first visit to Lebanon. Everything one thinks they know about Beirut, Lebanon, or the Middle East goes right out the window on your first visit. Once you roll down those windows the wind of hospitality, generosity of spirit, food, wine, culture, civilization mixed in a bullet ridden army check point militarized country made a perfect palette for story telling. This was a 7-year endeavor so along the way there were additional “lightbulb” moments. I’d say we have enough to string a whole Christmas tree. The more you uncover the deeper you want to dig. The discovery process is wonderful but dangerous at the same time. Curiosity is a wonderful thing but it comes with a cost of time and money. I guess by paying for the film ourselves this aspect was a bit of curiosity and a bit of a luxury. My wallet completely disagrees.
Is it easier to make a film as a lone director or, as you did this time around, with another co-director?
Ryan: The co-director and producer, Mark Johnston, and I go way back. As with any filmmaking crew, we had many constructive conflicts because we come at the issue from two different yet complementary perspectives. Either way, due to the scope of the film, it wouldn’t have been made unless it was a team effort.
There are so many wisdoms throughout your film, quotes and ideas that keep inspiring the viewer long after watching the film. Did you purposely give your speakers the time to come up with such wisdoms? And how do you achieve that as filmmakers?
Johnston: To hear you say that means a lot. I think the truth was well crafted into the many layers of the film which holds its integrity together. There is much to be inspired by in this part of the world. Most interestingly is that the wisdoms of the speakers were very easy to capture. There wasn’t one interview where we didn’t leave saying “that was the best or most profound interview yet!” It was always amazing to get another opportunity to interview, learn about a new story or a different way at looking at life or dealing with a problem or embracing the unknown. The hardest part was threading the story together and steering away from politics which dominate the region. The achievement came over time. Like wine, the ingredients are right there if you know where to look for them. Beyond that, time needs to take its course for the story to unfold.
What is your own connection with wine? And personal favorite grape, winery?
‘Wine and War’ co-director Mark Ryan
Ryan: I often work in the wine trade, making documentaries for wine regions and wineries. Carignan is a personal favorite. The thing is that it takes 70+ years for the vine to age and become interesting, which Lebanon has.
Johnston: I had literally no connection to wine until I first arrived in Lebanon. I will never forget that transformational journey Serge provided. He cast a spell on me. Seven years later I am somewhat an aficionado of Lebanese wine. I really don’t like to drink any other wine. But I’m still learning and loving the discovery process. My personal favorite grape is the Cinsault.
What made you decide to donate all your proceeds to CAP-HO in Beirut?
Ryan: The Lebanese taught us so much about resilience and perseverance. It felt like the least thing we could do for a country whose worries extend far beyond the August 4th explosion and COVID to hyper-inflation, a power vacuum, increasing sectarian divisions, etc.
Johnston: We are donating all proceeds to CAP-HO because after many years and trips to Lebanon our friends and their friends are in deep need of help. Lebanon used to be the Paris of the Middle East and it has suffered so much in recent years. Venezuela-style hyper inflation, massive political corruption, Coronavirus, sectarian violence, assassinations, and the Beirut blast that decimated half the city. Possibly the most important thing that can happen right now is to help provide medical care to children without insurance in Lebanon and to help rebuild Saint George’s hospital which was heavily damaged by the explosion in Beirut two months ago on August 4th.
There is a wonderful quote in ‘The Third Man’ (see above) about struggle and creation. Do you think Lebanese winemakers are so successful because of their struggle? And can we all learn from them in this worldwide time of crisis?
Johnston: I love that quote! Lebanese wine makers are certainly successful because of their struggle. They are experts in crisis management. Take them out of Lebanon and they probably look at the world the way Neo does when he finally figures out how to navigate in the Matrix. When one has experienced for generations the hardships that come with being born in a certain territory of war and yet has persevered during all this time, that DNA can be a powerful material for focus on what’s truly important, which is life, love and humanity.
What would you like your viewers to take away from the film?
Johnston: Eyes open that life has many wisdoms and ideas to be shared and learned and inspiration can come where least expected.
Ryan: That even during crisis, one can persevere. The Lebanese can party on the rooftops during a war. Shouldn’t we learn how to do that?
And finally, if you were a wine how would you describe yourselves?
Ryan: “Minerally, with a zesty complex finish.”
Johnston: A ready to drink complex red blend with high alcohol content.